I spent just over a week in Riyadh and enjoyed every single moment of my trip, though nothing really came close to the day when I explored the nearby town of Diriyah. This town is home to a UNESCO heritage site today, which is known as the At-Turaif District. This was the heart of the first Saudi state, and it was ruined in a siege during the Ottoman-Wahhabi War (1811-1818). Thankfully, Diriyah is once again livelier than ever today, and it even became an attractive tourist destination for travellers that are interested in the history and culture of the Kingdom.
Diriyah is not far away from Riyadh. In fact, it took me only twenty minutes or so to reach it by taxi from King Abdullah Financial District. I saw a few bus stops that were under constructions on the way, so I am quite certain that by the time this article is published, it will be possible to visit Diriyah without ever leaving Riyadh’s public transportation network. Given how fast Riyadh is expanding, one can even say that soon enough Diriyah will become an integral part of its much bigger neighbour, which is the current seat of the Saudi power.
While At-Turaif District is the main attraction in Diriyah, it is not the only thing on the menu. This area is full of parks and recreation sites like this, some oases, high-end shopping and dining complexes, trendy cafes, and even the city’s finest art museum, Diriyah Art Futures. There is something to do for everyone in this corner of the Kingdom, and this is by design. Wherever I went in the Kingdom as an almost 30-year-old man, I could find something that interested me. This applied to the couples, elderly, and children I saw around me as well. I must say, I do enjoy this mentality. Offer something for everyone so that while some can rest or play, others can do a bit of sightseeing or enjoy a dinner as they see fit.
Anyways, the main attraction here is, nevertheless, At-Turaif District. Entry to this heritage site is a bit complicated, at least if you go by the rules that you find online. I suggest you simply download Webook app and see if you can reserve your entry ticket there. While some people suggest that the entrance is paid, and some others suggest that it is paid only after certain hours, my experience was a bit different. The app never showed me any fees for whatever I wanted to reserve. I just received a reservation QR code for free, and that worked wonderfully at the entrance. I was then directed towards an area with wells and some introductory information to the area at large.
This part of the heritage site focused on the renovation work itself, and how it was not meant to harm the historicity of the site. The idea was not to restore buildings to how they once looked, but to help combat against further decay. This is why, some illustrious parts of these ruins, such as this tower, were kept in the shape that they were found. They are protected from the elements and are made stronger through certain methods that I am not familiar with as a simple historian, but their actual overall shape and sizes, as well as style, were not altered.
I believe that is for the best. You can still clearly make out some of the most ancient parts of the city, parts that are standing here for the last three centuries. These walls and more witnessed and survived Ottoman cannons, countless skirmishes, fires, and so on, and yet they are still around. I certainly enjoyed seeing some of them in their original states, whenever that was possible. I bet this bird that consider these walls their home thinks the same.
As is usual in most older towns found in this part of the world, Diriyah can be described as an oasis town first and foremost. More specifically, it is found alongside Wadi Hanifah, a valley with seasonal streams that made agriculture possible. This is why, this part of the town today is greener than the rest, at least in a more natural sense. Riyadh is home to a ton of decent parks that are kept in that state through continuous maintenance, and while Diriyah’s parks are also certainly maintained to keep their appearance, they do seem lusher and inviting, at least to my untrained eyes.
As you venture into the heritage site, you will be greeted by a ton of friendly staff members and volunteers, who will direct you to the nearest museum on your path. While the entire district is a joy to walk around in, those museums are there to help you make sense of that enjoyable walk in the best way possible. The first one you come across gives you a quick history of Wadi Hanifah and Diriyah and it includes a sculpture of the town as well as a video with a Saudi historian talking about the siege of Diriyah back in 1818, when the Ottoman forces razed this town.
Thankfully, Diriyah is coming back to life today. As archaeologists uncover more relics from the past, renovators help keep what was excavated in top shape. There are, of course, some modern additions to this heritage site as well. There are toilets and cafes, and a few other basic structures to help you enjoy it as comfortably as possible. Nevertheless, most of the streets look like this, clean and devoid of any modern obstructions.
Apparently, not only can one visit this heritage site for free, but also the Saudis offer their guests a ton of water to keep them hydrated in their journey. As someone who is accustomed to pay for museums and then pay an incredible sum for the most basic drinks in them in most countries that I visited so far, this was a level of hospitality that I will not forget anytime soon. I did end up drinking an entire bottle of water in each museum I stopped in, it was an extremely hot day after all.
While the second museum I ran into was about Arabian horses, and did not necessarily pique my interest, I was completely hooked when I came across the local military museum. This small exhibition actually highlighted many details regarding the Ottoman campaign in Arabia, while showcasing original items that were used back then by both warring parties.
After thoroughly enjoying that museum and realizing that the sun was about to set, I decided to rush my exploration of the area. You see, there is now a so-called Sports Boulevard that connects Diriyah to some of the most exciting zones of Riyadh Season, and I wanted to walk the whole distance that night so that I could enjoy a visit to Boulevard City to wrap up my day. To do so, I had to leave Diriyah by 5 pm, and I was dedicated to see it all in time.
Thankfully, I was running out of museums to visit at this point as well. The one on everyday life in old Diriyah was, unfortunately, closed at the time, likely due to some ongoing renovations. The museum on local architecture, however, was certainly open. It informed me on how air ventilation and overall climate control worked in these old houses, and there was even a section on different building materials and their roles in classical Arab architecture.
I should also note that practically any piece of writing you can find in this heritage site is fully and properly translated to English. It really is a joy to visit this place, with the freely provided water, frequent museum stops that shelter you from the sun, and well written and translated information provided to all for free.
Plenty of staff members told me that if I liked At-Turaif District now, I would love it at nighttime. I understood where they were coming from. The entire place was clearly organized with long night walks in mind, and people were flooding into the site just as I was trying to leave it. I suppose, if you want to make the most of your visit to At-Turaif District, and turn it into something even more magical, you should visit it at night. You may even run into some shows and concerts and enjoy dining in one of the many fancy eateries in this part of the town. For aforementioned reasons, I had to take my leave before the sun set down.
I will not forget my day out in Diriyah any time soon. This place oozes with historicity, and the hospitality of the Saudi locals, while superb across the Kingdom, reached its apex in their oldest capital city. I should also add that many construction sites were buzzing with activity across the town even after sunset, as I walked by them on my way back to Riyadh. This is to say, while I already enjoyed my visit to At-Turaif District, it seems like the district itself will become just one (crucial) part of a massive entertainment complex that could very well please people from across the world even more in the near future. One can only wait and see, and I sure hope that I can be back to see the final product in all its glory someday soon.