This is not the first time I write one of these trip reports, but it may be the first time you are seeing one of them. To put it shortly, these reports fulfill a few much needed roles on Wondering Voyager. First and foremost, they act like collections where I gather all my writings on a particular country under a single roof. Furthermore, I try my best to give some general tips throughout this article and share my actual itinerary with those who may be interested in them. Last but not least, I share every single payment I make during a trip to clarify its true cost. I prefer that method to vaguely calling places cheap or expensive, words that have no universal meaning. The following is my trip report on Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH). Read on to find out what exactly I ended up doing in BiH, just how much money I spent during the entire trip, and what you should be aware of if you intend to visit this beautiful country as well.
General Itinerary Notes
- Our Bosnian trip took 18 days. To some that may be an awful lot of time, to some others it may not seem enough. The reality is, we did not even manage to see half of what this deceptively small country offers in this time period. You see, it is not particularly easy to move from one part of Bosnia to another. First of all, within BiH, there is the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which is where we spent almost all of our time in, and then there is also the Republic of Srpska. There is even some co-administrated land called the district of Brčko. While Bosnia’s constituent parts are connected to one another, these are not always convenient connections. This brings us to the second issue. A lot can be improved when it comes to public transportation in this country. There are very few trains, and they are often running late. Even convenient and frequent bus routes are a rarity. In short, Bosnian public transportation network is not flexible, it is just there to do the bare minimum. Inconvenient administrative divisions and an inflexible public transportation network made us stick to the Bosniak and Croat parts of BiH during this trip. Serbian dominated parts of the country remain a mystery to me.
- BiH can get pretty damn hot during July. This made it rather difficult to enjoy some longer hikes and even hampered the overall urban exploration experience slightly. If I had more flexibility with this trip, I would certainly visit BiH around shoulder months.
- On a similar note, summertime seems to be the period when BiH receives most of its visitors and please do note that this is a rather touristic country. As someone who loves the Balkans, and visited most of the former Yugoslav states, I must say that I do not remember waiting in a line for an eatery at any point during my previous travels in the region, but I had to do that in BiH. The city center of both Mostar and Sarajevo can get so hectic that the torrent of visitors could very well push you to the side of the road or even block your way completely. To me, this is highly undesirable. Quaint historic cities and noisy crowds do not go hand in hand together. That is why, once again, if you are flexible, try and visit BiH during shoulder months or even in winter, when the country is reportedly even more beautiful.
- As is usual for my summer trips, I visited BiH with my mother. In fact, this trip was meant to coincidence with her birthday. That is to say, compared to some of my other trips, I had a slower tempo in BiH. The fact that we spend five nights in Neum simply enjoying the sea and the delicious local cuisine is a testament to how slow that tempo could get at some point. That is why you may see some days being rather devoid of activities in the itinerary below. That was by design.
- A final note regarding our itinerary is a more specific one concerning Neum, directed to those of you who do not have a Schengen visa. You see, you cannot simply use any bus that goes to Neum to actually be able to get there. Most of these busses pass by Croat territory, for which you will need a Schengen visa. Only one particular line, served by Centrotrans, goes through the Bosnian town of Stolac, rather than the Croat coast, to get to Bosnia’s tiny coastline. This line serves day trippers so that locals of Sarajevo can enjoy the sea for a few hours and then go back home on the same day. Presumably, this service only works over summertime. This is something to keep in mind if you enjoy what I write on Neum, want to experience it for yourself, and you need to use a public transportation option that does not cross into Croat territory.
General Budgetary Notes
- Among the three towns that we stayed in, Sarajevo was the cheapest. Both the cost of accommodation and food was slightly below the prices we came across in Mostar and Neum. Among those two, Neum seemed to be the more expensive one, which is understandable given the fact that it is a tiny resort town that relies on seasonal traffic. With that being said, frankly, there was not a clear gap in prices in between these three cities, other than the more noticeable difference in the cost of accommodation. You can find cheap yet tasty burek and pastries in all towns, and pizza seems to be cheap across the country as well.
- Since I visited BiH with my mother you may assume that we did everything together. That is not true. At the end of the day, she is slighter older than me, as mothers often are. That means that she likes to take things easier. This is why, if my plan for the day did not interest her all that much, my mother preferred to stay in the apartment and enjoy her TV series instead. During such days, she often eats at our accommodation as well, using the groceries we bought. In my itinerary I noted quite clearly whether an activity involved two of us, or just me.
- Speaking of groceries, you will see this word used as a general-purpose term that covers all the basic goods that we bought in a day in all my itineraries from now on. In my previous trip reports I sometimes tried to list some items like water and snacks separately, which makes it harder to follow (and write) this itinerary. Moving forward, money spent on basic goods like drinking water, snacks, alcohol, proper groceries for my mother so that she could cook and eat at the accommodation will all simply be combined into a single “groceries” entry in the itinerary.
- As is often the case in this region, for the most part, tips are not included in bills in BiH, and tipping is not exactly expected. With that being said, the prices below more often than not include small tips, usually around 10%. I do tip if the service is good, and service is pretty good in BiH. However, in case you are wondering, the exact prices for each item that we ordered can be found on my Instagram account dedicated solely to food, the Voracious Voyager!
My Bosnian Trip
9.07.2025 Wednesday
Today we flew to Sarajevo and then take the train to Mostar. After a quick take away dinner we called it a day.
Sim card and internet package for 30 Days from BH Telecom – 40 BAM
Two bus rides within Sarajevo – 4.4 BAM
Train ride from Sarajevo to Mostar for two – 28.2 BAM
Dinner from STO% for two – 14 BAM
Groceries – 8 BAM
Total – 94.6 BAM
Food wise, we were off to a great start with some unassuming little sandwiches from STO% in Mostar. To find out where to dine out best in this beautiful town do check out THIS article.
10.07.2025 Thursday
Today we explored what Mostar had to offer and more or less saw all the sights that we wanted to see in a single day.
Lunch at Hindin Han for two – 55 BAM
Dinner at Pizzeria Napolitano for two – 34 BAM
Magnet – 4 BAM
Groceries – 10.8 BAM
Total – 103.8 BAM
Mostar is popular and crowded, but it is not necessarily big. You can explore this gorgeous town within a single day quite easily. Feel free to follow our footsteps using THIS article.
11.07.2025 Friday
We enjoyed a quick day trip to Blagaj to see the spring of the Buna River on this sunny day.
Breakfast at Buregdžinica Ago for two – 10 BAM
Bus ride to Blagaj and back for two – 10 BAM
Magnet – 2 BAM
One litre of travarica and half a litre of herbal syrup from a local vendor – 19 BAM
Drinks at Café de Alma for two – 12 BAM
Lunch from STO% for two – 10 BAM
Dinner at Vrata Orijenta for two – 43 BAM
Groceries – 1 BAM
Total – 107 BAM
Blagaj is a must see. My completely subjective experience says so. To find out why I loved that place so much make sure to read the relevant article HERE.
12.07.2025 Saturday
Today we moved from Mostar to Neum and settled into our new accommodation.
Bus ride from Mostar to Neum for two – 40 BAM
Luggage fee – 2 BAM
Coffee and lunch at Marinero for two – 49 BAM
Dinner at Megi for two – 15 BAM
Groceries – 36 BAM
Total – 142 BAM
There really is not all that much to see or do in Neum other than to relax. You can read THIS article to find out all about what you can do if you visit this unassuming little coastal town.
13.07.2025 Sunday
We enjoyed swimming in the morning and just relaxed for the rest of the day.
Lunch from Pekara Magistrala for two – 8 BAM
Dinner at Villa Dom for two – 80 BAM
Two crepes from a food stall – 8 BAM
Total – 96 BAM
Neum has some fantastic food, if you know where to look for it. To find out where to dine like a king, check out my article HERE.
14.07.2025 Monday
This was an even slower day, where instead of going out to eat, we just enjoyed snacking at our accommodation after a few hours of swimming.
Groceries – 37 BAM
Total – 37 BAM
Speaking of, if you are into snacking, Bosnian supermarkets will not disappoint you. Both some local and regional brands that are readily available here are worth checking out. To find out what sort of goods you should consider buying at a Bosnian supermarket, make sure to check out THIS article of mine.
15.07.2025 Tuesday
This was yet another lazy day, complete with more swimming, drinking, and eating.
Dinner from Marinero for two – 33 BAM
Total – 33 BAM
Honestly, no relevant articles to attach here at this point.
16.07.2025 Wednesday
This was my mother’s birthday, so we did exactly what we have been doing for the last three days and just enjoyed the waters of the Adriatic Sea. We also enjoyed dining in Laguna Restoran, simply the best place to eat in BiH.
Lunch at Megi for two – 30 BAM
Magnet – 5 BAM
Dinner at Laguna Restoran for two – 92.5 BAM
Ice cream for two from a food stall – 5 BAM
Total – 132.5 BAM
This was, sadly, our last full day enjoying this view.
17.07.2025 Thursday
Quite sad that we are leaving, we spent the day eating around Neum and waiting for our bus in the evening to take us to Sarajevo, where we settled into our third and final accommodation.
Lunch at Laguna Restoran for two – 60 BAM
Dinner at Marinero for two – 18 BAM
Bus ride from Neum to Sarajevo for two – 60 BAM
Groceries – 7 BAM
Total – 145 BAM
Sarajevo is known as the Jerusalem of the Balkans. To find out why, do read THIS article of mine!
18.07.2025 Friday
I explored what Sarajevo’s city center offered as my mother rested until dinner today.
Lunch at Maksuz Soup & Pita for one – 10 BAM
Entry fee for The National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina for one – 20 BAM
Dinner at Besame Mucho for two – 41 BAM
Groceries – 75 BAM
Total – 146 BAM
There is too much to see and do in Sarajevo, too much for a city of its size anyways. To find out more about the city’s Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian heritage, you can read THIS work of mine. If you are interested in its Yugoslav past instead, do read the relevant article HERE.
19.07.2025 Saturday
Today I explored the lesser visited parts of Sarajevo to see the extent of the damage caused by the Bosnian War and witness the impact it had on modern Bosnian reality. My mother joined me for the first half of the trip and then retired to rest at the apartment.
Lunch at Buregdžinica Bećiri for two – 12 BAM
Two tram rides within Sarajevo – 4.4 BAM
Dessert at Cream Shop for one – 4 BAM
Dinner at Pekara Kovači kod Mahira for one – 10 BAM
Groceries – 10.6 BAM
Total – 41 BAM
1990s horrors can be felt across Sarajevo to this day. To read about the difficulties of the Bosnian War feel free to check out THIS article of mine. If you wish to find out how Bosnia is doing today through a look at its capital, make sure to take a look HERE.
20.07.2025 Sunday
I visited the Bosna Spring alongside with the few other attractions around the city’s airport today. My mother continued to rest until dinner, which we enjoyed together.
Entry fee for Vrelo Bune (Bosna Spring) for one – 6 BAM
Magnet and ice cream at Vrelo Bune – 4 BAM
Entry fee for Tunnel of Salvation for one – 20 BAM
Lunch at Veganer for one – 12 BAM
Dinner at ASDž for two – 20 BAM
Drinks at Teahouse Džirlo for two – 12 BAM
Six tram rides within Sarajevo – 13.2 BAM
Total – 87.2 BAM
Bosna Spring is one of the most convenient yet enchanting spots to visit from Sarajevo. To find out why it is well worth your time, do read THIS article of mine.
21.07.2025 Monday
Today I visited Visoko to figure out whether Bosnia has some pyramids or not. I also managed to have dinner with my mother and find out where to enjoy the best Neapolitan pizza in Sarajevo in the process.
Bus ride from Sarajevo to Visoko and back for one – 16 BAM
Lunch at Buregdžinica Zvrk for one – 4 BAM
Magnet – 2 BAM
Entry fee for Tunnel Ravne Bosna for one – 20 BAM
Dinner at Da Zero Pizza for two – 35 BAM
Dessert at Slastičarna Palma for two – 16 BAM
Groceries – 5.3 BAM
Total – 98.3 BAM
I am not convinced that Bosnia has pyramids. However, I can confirm that a visit to Visoko is a must for many other reasons. To find out why, do read an unusually cynical piece of writing of mine HERE.
22.07.2025 Tuesday
I visited a former coal town called Zenica today and enjoyed some drinks and a dinner with my mother back in Sarajevo.
Bus ride from Sarajevo to Zenica and back for one – 37 BAM
Lunch at Pasta Lab for one – 10 BAM
Entry fee for Zenica City Museum for one – 5 BAM
Drinks at Cafe Tito for two – 18 BAM
Dinner at Buregdžinica Sač for two – 10 BAM
Dessert at Slastičarna Badem for two – 14 BAM
Two tram rides within Sarajevo – 4.4 BAM
Groceries – 43.8 BAM
Total – 142.2 BAM
Zenica is not for everyone, as it is a decaying old coal town that could become a ghost town in the near future. To figure out if you may be interested in visiting it yourself, do check out my THIS article of mine.
23.07.2025 Wednesday
I hiked to the Skakavac waterfall today, and then rested for the rest of the day, minus a quick outing for dinner with my mother.
Lunch at Piccolo Mondo for one – 23.5 BAM
Dinner at Morica Han for two – 51 BAM
Four tram rides and two bus rides within Sarajevo – 13.2 BAM
Total – 87.7 BAM
Skakavac waterfall is a sight to behold, alas, the hike there is not the most convenient one to do if you rely on public transportation as I do. You can check out THIS piece to decide whether it is worth the trouble or not.
24.07.2025 Thursday
No trip to Sarajevo is complete without seeing the abandoned bobsled tracks atop the nearby Trebević Mountain. That is exactly what I did today. I also happened to enjoy what could be the best sushi in the Balkans.
One way cable car ride to Trebević for one – 20 BAM
Lunch at Sushi San for one – 38 BAM
Dinner at Burger Bar JEDI ME for two – 47 BAM
Dessert at Cream Shop for two – 14 BAM
Two tram rides within Sarajevo – 4.4 BAM
Total – 123.4 BAM
It is rather straightforward to enjoy what Trebević Mountain offers, though if you are interested, feel free to read about my own experiences HERE.
25.07.2025 Friday
I wrapped up seeing whatever else I wanted to see in Sarajevo and took a few more photographs that I could not take before on our last full day in the Bosnian capital. My mother rested the whole day, and I joined her for dinner, which we cooked at the apartment.
Entry fee for Tito Museum for one – 10 BAM
Lunch at Falafel Restaurant – 13 BAM
Magnet – 3 BAM
Dessert at Fehmi 1958 for one – 9.5 BAM
Total – 35.5 BAM
By this point I was done visiting museums in Sarajevo, though frankly I was not really interested in visiting that many of them to begin with. To find out why, feel free to check out this manifesto of mine HERE.
26.07.2025 Saturday
We flew back home on this day. Thankfully, we still managed to eat at our favourite burek and dessert spot before leaving Sarajevo behind.
Lunch at Buregdžinica Bećiri for two – 9 BAM
Dessert at Cream Shop for two – 24 BAM
Two tram and two bus rides within Sarajevo – 8.8 BAM
Total – 41.8 BAM
Sarajevo satisfied both of us greatly in terms of food. To find out where to eat some of the best local food in the Bosnian capital do read THIS article of mine. If you are interested in more international options, check out the article HERE. If you have a sweet tooth, or you just want to enjoy a drink, you should read THIS piece of mine instead.
Grand Total: 1694 BAM
At the time of writing, this converts to more or less 1000 USD. This figure does not include airfare and accommodation. I omit such costs more often than not, especially if it is not a solo trip of mine. I am quite convinced that such initial costs depend a lot on your own circumstances, and thus my individual experience means very little to the general public. Beyond those costs, rest assured that 500 USD per person for an 18-day trip is enough for BiH. This makes BiH, surprisingly, cheaper than any other country I visited in the region.
Moreover, you may notice how some of our meals costed only 10 or 20 BAM, while some others hovered above 80 BAM. Obviously, you can make this trip far more budget friendly if you just reduce spending on food. If I learnt anything from my travels so far, it is that more expensive does not necessarily mean better, especially when it comes to food. Some budget options we enjoyed during this trip, such as the fresh sandwiches from STO% and burek from Buregdžinica Bećiri, tasted incredible despite costing less than 5 BAM per person. You really do not need to pay 38 BAM to eat a platter of sushi to enjoy your trip. Besides, while everything we ate in Laguna Restoran were by far the most flavourful ones we had in a long while, not every relatively expensive restaurant we visited necessarily was worth the money.
Admittedly, during this trip, we also spent a bit more than usual on some desserts, beer, and snacks. We drank beer more frequently both with our meals and at least once per day in our accommodation. We also enjoyed way more desserts this time, in fact, we may even start to develop a sweet tooth at this rate. Last but not least, we snacked far too much at the apartment, enough to out on some weight despite being extremely active during this trip. I realize that neither one of these are luxury items, per se, but they are not necessary neither. Our Bosnian trip would have been just as fun and memorable even if we enjoyed a few less beers or crisps.
I must also note that, as is usual in my trips; in order to do justice to this website, I visited a few spots that I would not visit normally. For example, you really do not need to worry about visiting any one of the museums that I visited. In fact, you can skip seeing any museums in BiH and still have an amazing holiday. BiH just might be my new favourite country in the Balkans, and that is all thanks to its extremely kind people, and mind-blowing nature. Museums are often a sideshow at best, and in this case, they are an especially costly sideshow since they will eat into your time that you could be spending conversing with the locals or enjoying the great outdoors.
All of this is to say, by keeping your meals simple, spending less on snacks, and by not visiting a few sites that you are not interested in, you can most likely bring down these costs to a humble 300 USD per person for an 18-day trip, which is a bargain in this economy. If you are outright cash-strapped you can stick to eating cheap but still tasty burek for the most, hitchhike almost everywhere, and skip most attractions, and even then, you would be able to enjoy your trip to BiH. This is because traveling is not about checking some boxes. It is about being present in the moment and enjoying a different part of the globe with its own histories, peoples, and narratives to uncover. You can enjoy all of these and more in BiH with a humble budget, all you really need is the motivation to do so!