While Macedonia’s capital is charming and has its own hordes of tourists, mostly from Turkey, it is arguably Ohrid that is the true touristic capital of this beautiful Balkan country. People from all over the world, and in impressive quantities no less, flock to the rocky yet beautiful beaches of Lake Ohrid annually. These tourists want to be well fed, which is why I am happy to report that Ohrid did have a rather robust dining scene even for us pescatarians, though frankly it did not match up to Skopje or Pristina in my experience. Nevertheless, let us now go over some of the finest spots to grab a grub in heart of Macedonian tourism!
Ohrid City Bakery – https://maps.app.goo.gl/nmMS9QCkJB8U5MC29
Burek is the quintessential Balkan dish. You can certainly taste some of its finest examples in this seldom appreciated part of the world. While there are better bureks than the one you will find in Ohrid City Bakery, I would be surprised if you run into a friendlier owner. The old gentleman who mans the counter is a delight to talk to, and his burek means business. It is spectacularly tasty and flaky, and perhaps most importantly for those with an empty stomach, it is simply huge. You better find the time to visit this lovely establishment if you ever find yourself in Ohrid.
Vkusno Kebap Shop – https://maps.app.goo.gl/iwaQh3ytHaTc6Nyx6
While burek is a part of the Macedonian cuisine, as much as it is a part of all of their neighbours’ cuisine, there is more to explore out there than some flaky pastries. For example, in case of Macedonia, we have some delightful baked beans to look forward to. There are some decent eateries in Ohrid who excel in this dish, but I will only mention two of them due to my own limited time in that beautiful lakeside city. While primarily known for its meatballs, Vkusno Kebap Shop does serve a mean baked beans dish. Their beans are served in a claypot which waits for you on top of their massive grill, slowly absorbing the essence of all the meats that are slowly cooked all around it. Therefore, while one can argue that it is hardly a pure vegetarian dish, due to its highly smoky and almost meaty taste and smell, the dish at hand is in fact meatless. They are a bit wonky with service, and there are not that many options for vegetarians, so perhaps the next spot on this article may be of more interest to those who are not interested in eating meat.
Gostilnica Neim – https://maps.app.goo.gl/D4YBw73u91sEc2yi9
Despite being located just a few meters away from Vkusno Kebap Shop, Gostilnica Neim offers a completely different style of dining for its customers. Here, you will feel that you are at a guest house rather than a kebab shop. Furthermore, the atmosphere is more authentic, people are friendlier, and there are more meatless options on the menu. While their baked beans tasted slightly worse than the same dish that I had at Vkusno Kebap Shop, the Shopska Salad here was simply to die for. If you do find the idea of putting a ton of sharp cheese on some tomato and cucumbers excellent, as I do, you will have a great time at this establishment.
Kaj Kanevche – https://maps.app.goo.gl/aCNAMEyhQ5oYmkfi7
While Macedonian food is no joke, it would be a problem not to enjoy some seafood when one is staying near a massive lake. Lake Ohrid is home to many species of fish, and unsurprisingly, its coasts are full of restaurants claiming to serve the best Ohrid trout and the like. Kaj Kanevche has a sizeable seafood-oriented menu, with proper mezzes and salads to accompany such gilled goodies from the lake. During our visit there to celebrate my mother’s birthday, we opted for some smaller fish, which are easier to eat as their bones hardly get in the way of your enjoyment. You can find these on the menu as plashici, which are just the most succulent tiny fishes ever. However, do know that they also serve the famous Ohrid trout, which is why most people pay them a visit. From their lovely view of the Kaneo Church to friendly prices, and from such a professional staff to their tasty food, Kaj Kanevche offers its patrons an unforgettable night. This is the spot you do not want to miss in Ohrid!
Pizza Calabria Ohrid – https://maps.app.goo.gl/uAFjS7ZuoPUnATFA8
While there is some decent food in Ohrid, said food is also often noticeably more expensive than similar items are in the neighbouring region. This price difference can be felt quite clearly in between Ohrid and Skopje, and arguably Ohrid is just more expensive than most if not all destinations that I visited in the Balkans as a whole. A few establishments, like Pizza Calabria are the only antidotes to the touristy pricing that is common in the city. Owners of this lovely establishment learnt how to make a good pizza in Tropea, a small town in Calabria, thus the naming of their restaurant. While you can order their pizzas as a whole, you may also try their massive slices, which are worth just over a USD in the local currency. Two of those were enough to keep me going for some hours, though I did enjoy their whole pies as well when my rumbling stomach asked for one.
Pizza Nemo – https://maps.app.goo.gl/bUEeHMQjQ37vgxxG7
Though they do not serve the cheapest nor the best pizza in town, Pizza Nemo’s friendly staff and excellent location in the touristic center of the city make it an okay destination to have a quick dinner. They do not skimp on ingredients as well, which is certainly good news. Their four-cheese pizza and seafood spaghetti can both be bettered in multiple ways, but both had a ton of goodies, and there was a generous serving of parmesan to enjoy alongside it all. If you want a really cheesy pizza that you can make even cheesier by putting the said parmesan on top of it, you will probably like this friendly spot that is named after everyone’s favourite missing fish.
Antep Baklava – https://maps.app.goo.gl/wvsX7dhYt9afGLWN7
I may have had the cheapest baklava ever in the old quarter of Ohrid, and I am still shocked about it. While the baklava was not the crunchiest, it was flaky enough to be considered a good one. Furthermore, despite being priced a few cents per piece, you get a ton of nuts and other condiments in each of your baklava pieces. The owner, who seems to have come from Turkey quite recently, was very friendly, and he knew just what to recommend as his counter full of different types of baklavas to try may seem intimidating to most. I would recommend getting some baklava to go here, and then enjoy it as you sip your tea in any one of the nearby cafes and tea houses. The owners will, most likely, not mind it.
Well, this was all I had on eating out in Ohrid. While it does not win any awards for being a city fit for gourmets, it does offer a decent selection of food for most of its visitors. However, as is the case in Turkey, some of the best food the country has to offer seems to have coalesced around its capital. More on that later in a few weeks!