Azerbaijan has an excellent cuisine, even for pescatarians like me. While it is admittedly meat-heavy, you can always find something vegetarian on the menu. While one would have a hard time criticising the Azeri cuisine as is, it is, unfortunately, not difficult to be unimpressed with the service one may find in many Azeri restaurants. Due to a mix of reasons ranging from poor wages for service workers and a careless attitude towards tourists of any kind, you may be frustrated at some restaurants with how you are treated. To make your time dining out in Baku a bit easier for you, I will now go through my own experiences (both the good and the bad) one by one, in the order that I enjoyed (or did not enjoy) them.
Firuze – https://maps.app.goo.gl/N8GKi6cHioFPVGva9
Unfortunately, the very first Azeri food I had was at Firuze. This extremely touristic spot was recommended by any and all blogs and YouTube videos I came across during my initial research for the trip. While their dovgha soup was not terrible, I cannot say the same for the service, nor for the qutab. No one in this establishment smiled, not even once. Everyone always looked tense. While there were merely three tables that were full when I was there, the waiter did not even want to ask the chef whether they could serve a mixed qutab platter or not. For your information, almost all restaurants sell qutab by piece, but here, these doughy Azeri goodies are sold in batches of four. Of course, their fillings are all pre-prepared, so the only thing the chef needs to do is to use four different kinds of fillings (sold at the same price) so that a patron can try them all. Well, the waiter said no, and when I asked if he could ask the chef, he hurried with another no. I opted for a full batch of qutab with greens as my phone was running out of battery and I needed to charge it immediately, and that was a big mistake. The qutabs’ dough had no taste, and the greens were outright bitter. It had no salt or spices, and the yoghurt that was served with it barely allowed me to stuff it all in my mouth somehow. This was not a good experience, to say the least.
Dolma – https://maps.app.goo.gl/zeX4EUx3zk9hVhXEA
Dolma is like Firuze if the latter was any good. It shares practically everything that makes Firuze famous. It is touristic, its interior looks decent, and the menu is huge. However, this time, the service is actually friendly, despite the waiters clearly being overwhelmed with masses flocking in there. Their qutab was far superior to the one I had in Firuze, the lentil soup was simply amazing, and the oven roasted potatoes and mushrooms was top notch. Combine all of this with reasonable prices and you have yourself a decent dining experience.
Pendir Chorek – https://maps.app.goo.gl/a9GR2tKgkd64xcqR6
I have seen this place many times on my way in and out of the Old Town of Baku, thinking that it must be some expensive tourist trap. Well, I was only half right. It is not expensive, but I would consider it a tourist trap nevertheless due to its location. Qutab here was smaller and far less tasty than the one at Dolma, and I can say the same for their lentil soup as well. However, prices are reasonable, it has an excellent location for a breather in between long walking sessions, and the staff is very friendly. Certainly not a bad experience.
Xezer – https://maps.app.goo.gl/YHHsZdkpZMEzgpxi8
I will forever remember the menemen I had in Xezer, forever. In fact, this deceivingly simple dish, consisting of eggs and tomatoes completely ruined menemen for me. Now, I cannot enjoy it as I did before elsewhere. They served me the most buttery, sweetest, and filling menemen I had to date using only the finest of produce. The bread on the side was also quite fresh and tasty, and their dovgha soup in a cup was simply amazing, tasting like an upgraded ayran. If I did not run into this place in my last day, I probably would have dined here every single day. While they have a smaller menu, their food is beyond superb, and their prices are extremely budget friendly. This is, by far, the best spot to enjoy Azeri food in Baku. Just know that English is not their forte, and you may have to use some Turkish or Russian for communication instead.
90’lar Café – https://maps.app.goo.gl/HXNB9BZkAEAYx3Ju6
If you would like to teleport yourself to Baku of 1990s, there is a place where you can do that, called 90’lar Café. As you may imagine, it just means 90s Café, and it is pretty decent, but a bit overpriced. It is a popular destination for Baku’s youth, and many were on a date when I was there. They have a small but varied menu focusing on simpler dishes and desserts from 1990s, and their tea with milk certainly hit the right spot. I cannot say the same for the ice cream, but then again, what else did I expect. Nevertheless, it is a decent place to wind down.
Pon-Pushka Baku – https://maps.app.goo.gl/d9jBUzziiXfSvMbE7
If you need to quickly fix your sweet tooth, this cute little cubicle near the Old Town metro station may be the best way to do it. You can get what seems to be a fusion between Soviet ponchiki and American donuts in this small establishment, alongside with a coffee or milkshake of your choice. I really loved how fresh these little balls of doughs were, and their glazes certainly were not overly sweet, which I appreciate. They are well worth a try.
Boho Tea and Wine Room – https://maps.app.goo.gl/QyQXAKXREgNmjaUZ8
Azerbaijan may not be famous for its wines, but in fact, it should be. As any other Caucasian country, they excel in producing this red (or white) “grape juice.” Their version, or at least the cups of wine I had during my short stay there, seemed to be a bit more on the sweeter side, for both red and white wine alike. Since grapefruit is one of the more proudly locally grown fruits out there, you can also find wines utilizing its unique flavour profile as well. Boho Tea and Wine Room, especially thanks to its serene backyard, is one of the finest places to try a bunch of Azeri wines, preferably with a side of black olives. Much recommended for a cozy night out!
