A Foreigner's Guide to Kazakhstan: Very Nice Indeed!

Kazakhstan is not just any other destination for me, but a home in its own rights. Despite initially being foreign to these beautiful steppes, I spent the better part of a year here and will be spending the next 3 to 4 years living around the region as well. That is why, this article, which aims to neatly conclude my writings on Kazakhstan, will be of a different nature than my normal “end of a trip” articles. In a sense, it is more akin to the one I wrote on Nizhny Novgorod, but much more extensive given my more ambitious travels around this massive country.

Frankly, you will not find all that much about the steppes or nature of Kazakhstan in this guide. There are plenty of others out there who are already doing that. This is about Kazakhstan beyond its steppes, and beyond the stereotypes. The bulk of my writings are on the country’s capital city of Astana, which is not very popular with tourists, since I live there, but there are also pieces on Almaty, Shymkent, Turkistan, Karaganda, Pavlodar, Semey, Kokshetau, and Petropavl. I can never claim that I have been to every single interesting spot in Kazakhstan (most notably Aktau is missing, and so is Baikonur), but I know for sure that I have been to more places than the few usual suspects that everybody knows about, giving this guide some legitimacy for those who are interested in exploring the more urban and lesser known side of Kazakhstan, which is just might surprise you! Without further ado, let us get to it!

*Some young Kazakh ladies practicing their traditional dances in front of the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi in Turkistan.*

Astana: The Modern Face of Kazakhstan

Astana is not for everyone. It seems like most people that visit it hate it, some of those that live in it also seem to share that sentiment. However, once you get past the initial shock of living in an unapologetically modern city with admittedly very little soul, you start to see the positives in it. Sure, without a car you are worse than a fish stuck in a desert, and those winters can get pretty rough, but with some of the nicest denizens out there and a booming dining scene, Astana manages to become a rather livable city at the end of the day. Articles linked below will tell you all about what to do and where to eat in Kazakhstan’s shiny capital if you end up visiting it.

*Astana’s new half is less than 30 years old. It is a fresh and well organized capital, just do not expect much history here.*

Almaty: The Crown Jewel of Kazakhstan

No matter how friendly prices and rent may be in Astana, and how fresh its air is in stark contrast to the smog that is common in Almaty, the latter remains the true crown jewel of Kazakhstan, and in fact, all of Central Asia. Almaty is something special, as you will surely note it yourself if you end up visiting that gem of a town. It has the grand outdoors for those who wish to hike and ski, it has exceptional restaurants for those that wish to dine well, and it has the history and culture to back it all up with for those who just want to explore a proper all-rounder city. In short, Almaty has something good to offer for everyone. Follow the links below to figure out how to make the most out of your stay in Almaty!

*Though Almaty itself is beautiful, the surrounding Tian Shan mountains are just gorgeous.*

Soviet Kazakhstan: Karaganda, Kokshetau, Pavlodar, and Petropavl

Some Kazakhs today may not want to hear this, but some cities of this expansive country still (thankfully, in my humble opinion) retain their Soviet beauty, in turn becoming exceptional destinations for those who are interested in Soviet mosaics and more. These are cities where you cannot easily find high rise buildings, or fancy sushi restaurants. However, what they lack in modern amenities, they more than make up in providing avid explorers with something unique, something that is both Kazakh and Soviet. Four cities I visited fit this bill nicely, and you can explore them at the leisure of your home by following the links below, or you can use them to plan your own trip!

*Petropavl’s Soviet mosaics are to die for, and are reason enough to visit the city.*

New Kazakhstan: Semey, Shymkent, and Turkistan

Kazakhstan is a young country, but that does not mean that it lacks an identity. Kazakhstanis have a lot that bind them together, a rich history and a good number of traditions are among the most important one of these social glues. Some cities came to be known in time as more Kazakh than others, either because more Kazakh is spoken there, or because of their history. Though I am yet to make it to the likes of Kyzylorda, Taraz, and Aktau, the three cities that you can find below should give you a pretty good idea about Kazakh culture and people today if you visit them.

*Though Soviet mosaics are becoming a rarity as time goes on, new Kazakh artists are ready to fill in the gap, given the chance.*

General Tips and Tricks for Kazakhstan

Yandex Taxi is a must have in Kazakhstan. Not only does it get you cheap taxis, but it can also help you order food and groceries directly to your doorstep. Booking is your next best helper in this country, as Airbnb does not seem all that popular in most Kazakh cities. There are also local alternatives like Krisha, but in all honesty Booking always did the job for me, and it should work well for you as well.
Kazakhstan may be a Muslim majority country, but do not let that fool you. It is a very secular country. You can find pubs even in smallest of towns, and many praise Almaty for its nightlife. It is true that, quite abnormally, the younger generations are becoming more conservative as the time goes on, but that should not be much of an issue to anyone visiting the country. I had a hard time finding a similarly aged Kazakh drinking buddy, but pubs are always full of middle aged and above Kazakhs merrily drinking. It is also one of the safest countries I visited to date. Regardless of the time of the day and the neighbourhood I was in, I always felt safe in Kazakhstan. Other than a few simple scams, I also have not heard of anyone else having trouble here as well. Corruption seems to be an issue of the past as well, at least for us foreigners who are here to live or travel. Chances of running into any bribing scheme is next to none.
Let us continue with money. As is the case in most developing countries, there are huge differences between what something costs in one part of the country and the other. I had very fulfilling and tasty meals in Kazakhstan for as little as 4 USD, and as much as 20 USD. On the whole, it is definitely cheaper than Europe and North America, but do not expect cities like Almaty or Astana to have “dirt cheap” prices. More often than not you get what you pay for, so increased prices do mean better service and higher quality of food. Moreover, transportation of all sorts, but especially taxis are extremely cheap in Kazakhstan, mostly due to country’s rich petroleum and natural gas reserves. You should not worry about travel costs all that much, despite the huge distances involved. I wish I could say the same for its accommodation prices but compared to fan favourites like Uzbekistan (which is admittedly too cheap to be used as a benchmark), it is not necessarily cheap.
Speaking of food, though it hurts me to say this, take what I say with a pinch of salt. The thing is, though most Kazakh stereotypes are unfounded, it is a fact that their cuisine is very carnivorous and therefore it is hardly a stereotype to say that Kazakhs love meat. As someone who does not eat meat, I am not best suited to tell you all about the finest horse meat you can find in the country. However, if you are like me, a pescetarian, or perhaps a vegetarian, then you are in the right spot for all food recommendations. Food and service can be really hit and miss in this country, so I would recommend all to take a look at my pieces on eating out, even if they practically skip all of the national cuisine. Worst case scenario, you will find out where to find a decent pizza or perhaps some fresh burrata cheese in the middle of the steppes.
Last but not least, there is this wonderful map on Google Maps, lovingly created by a team of Soviet mosaic lovers. Though I tried my best to visit a bunch of these places, there are simply too many to document on my own. You can check it out to see if the destinations you will visit may harbour a few such pieces of art or not.

*While Kazakh food may be missing for obvious reasons, I would like to believe that there is something for everyone in my foodie articles, like this perfectly fried fish in Astana’s Cafe Momo.*

Well, what are you waiting for? Kazakhstan is changing rapidly, and it will not wait for you to explore it before it is too late. Now that the country is home to anything that ranges from bustling metropolises with fine pizzerias to well-kept Soviet mosaics adorning massive communist apartment blocks, it is the exact right time to visit it. Soon enough, there will be less and less of history, and more and more of modern comforts that all look and feel the same all around the globe. Why wait until everything on this massive rock looks the same?